San José del Guaviare is located in the southeastern part of Colombia, about 400 kilometers from Bogotá. If you’re in the capital and want to reach Guaviare, you’ll need to take the road heading southeast, crossing the Eastern Llanos until you reach this fascinating destination. It’s the last point before the road disappears into the jungle, marking the transition from the llanero landscapes to the dense Amazonian vegetation.
To get to San José del Guaviare from Bogotá, you have two main options:
By bus:
- Duration: Approximately 8 hours.
- Route: Depart from the Salitre Transportation Terminal in Bogotá, heading southeast, crossing the Llanos Orientales, until you reach San José del Guaviare.
- Approximate cost: COP $106,000 for the TITANIO service from La Macarena bus company.
- Advantage: Ideal for those who want to enjoy the scenery along the way.
By plane:
- Duration: About 1 hour of flight.
- Departure airport: El Dorado Airport in Bogotá.
- Airlines: Satena and Clic Air operate direct flights to San José del Guaviare.
- Note: Flights usually arrive after noon.
If you prefer a more affordable and scenic trip, the bus is a great option. However, if you’re short on time, the flight is much faster. Both options have their charm!
This place, strategically located between the Serranía de la Lindosa, Chiribiquete National Park, and the Sierra de La Macarena, is much more than just a gateway to the jungle. It’s an ancestral land full of myths, legends, and remnants of ancient civilizations, like the petroglyphs carved into its rocks, which hold millennia-old stories. But I’ll share those details in future blogs.
A Town Full of Life and Contrasts
San José is larger than many might imagine. It’s a lively town, with plenty of shops, restaurants, and a much more affordable economy compared to Bogotá. Despite the presence of some checkpoints on the road and military personnel in the area, the feeling is one of safety.
Walking through town, it’s common to encounter indigenous people from two main ethnic groups: the Nukak and the Nükak Makú. Some lead a more nomadic lifestyle, while others are more integrated into the local dynamics. Children often walk back and forth across town with seemingly endless energy. While many don’t speak Spanish fluently, they manage to understand the basics to communicate. An interesting detail is that they distinguish themselves by the color of their hair, and no longer wear the traditional clothing of their culture.
The Transformation of an Economy
Guaviare has a complex history and, for many years, was tied to coca cultivation, especially during times of armed conflict. “Coca scraping,” as the process is known, is a tough job that involves picking leaves one by one from the plants, sliding them forcefully between fingers or makeshift tools, which can cause cuts and injuries. For this reason, many workers would wrap their hands in ropes or cloths to protect themselves, starting as early as 1:00 AM to take advantage of the cooler hours of the day.
Over time, and thanks to the peace agreements from about 6-7 years ago, this activity stopped being predominant. Nowadays, while there are some isolated coca crops, coca is no longer the region’s primary driver. In rural areas of Colombia, like the Sierra Nevada or the Amazon, coca leaves still hold cultural and medicinal value. They are used in ancestral rituals and as a dietary supplement for their properties in oxygenating the blood, improving concentration, and providing energy. However, in Guaviare, its significance seems to have faded along with the plantations.
Community Tourism: The New Heart of Guaviare
Community tourism has revitalized the local economy. What struck me the most was the organization of families to offer an authentic experience to travelers: from traditional dishes to guided tours by local experts. Each story, filled with myths and tales of the forest, immerses you deeper into the charm of the jungle.
San José del Guaviare is a destination full of nuances: history, culture, nature, and a resilient spirit that reflects in its people. If you’re looking for a different place to explore, this corner of Colombia will surprise you.
In upcoming blogs, I’ll share more about the secrets of Guaviare, its legends, and the must-see places. Keep traveling with me on Pegando la Vuelta!
Additionally, if you’re looking for an immersive experience in Guaviare, you can live it with us. Contact us, and we’ll send you all the detailed information!
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